The Australian Ballet

Balletcore: Ballet's influence on fashion

Madonna in Who’s That Girl, 1987 Photo Rex Features lsc

Madonna in Who’s That Girl, 1987
Photo Rex Features

From Marie Taglioni to Carrie Bradshaw, how the ballet aesthetic became a mainstream fashion staple.

As far as trends go, balletcore has continually permeated the fashion industry for over a century. The reciprocal relationship between ballet and fashion dates as far back as the art form's 16th-century origins, but the two became inextricably linked in 1832 when the first ever dancer to perform en pointe, Marie Taglioni, took to the stage in La Sylphide wearing a Romantic tutu and pointe shoes.

Almost a century later, Sergei Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes expanded on the ballet/fashion connection, collaborating with artists like Picasso and commissioning Coco Chanel to design the company costumes. Coveted by fashion-forward audience members, the ballet aesthetic grew as more designers embraced the shapes, fabrics and styles seen on the ballet stage.

In post war Europe, Christian Dior’s New Look collection thrust balletcore into the spotlight to a delighted consumer. The cinched in waists and voluminous skirts signified a new liberated era of fashion, free from the wartime rations and hardships.

Former Harper's Bazaar and Vogue editor Diana Vreeland entered the cultural zeitgeist in 1941 with her invention of the ballet flat. A former dancer and friend of Sergei Diaghilev, Vreeland introduced the “ballerina slipper” to the public, turning the pointe shoe into a street shoe for everyday wear.

Ballets Russes Apollo musagète 1

Ballet Russes dancers Alexandrova Danilova and Serge Lifar wear costumes by Coco Chanel in Apollo, (Balanchine) 1928
Photo Unknown

Vogue Dior

Christian Dior’s Bar suit, Vogue 1947
Photo Serge Balkin

Ballet Bite

The idea for Diana Vreeland’s ballerina slippers came to be because this style of shoe was exempt from wartime restrictions.

From the mid to late 20th century, ballets relationship to fashion became more mainstream with film stars Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly embracing the elegant styles inspired by the ballerina in both movies and real life.

During the maximalist 1980s and 90s, over-the-top costumes took centre stage on the catwalk with the rise of designers like Christian Lacroix, Vivienne Westwood, Valentino and Alexander McQueen taking advantage of the opulent styles. Pop stars like Madonna and Cyndi Lauper brought the tutu to a new generation but gave it punk twist, pairing brightly coloured tulle with fishnet tights and fingerless gloves. During the 2000s, the character of Carrie Bradshaw played by Sarah Jessica Parker burst onto the screens in Sex and the City parading Manhattan in an abundance of ballet inspired looks. The iconic opening credits feature Carrie in a tutu, in a look that reinvigorated the balletcore appeal.

Audrey

Audrey Hepburn, 1953
Photo Mark Shaw

Carrie

Sarah Jessica Parker in the Sex and the City opening credits
Photo HBO

Ballet Bite

Former Artistic Director of the American Ballet Theatre, Mikhail Baryshnikov played Carrie’s love interest Aleksandr Petrovsky in season six of Sex and the City.

More recently, the balletcore evolution has enjoyed a more comfortable transition into athleisurewear. The rise of workout clothes becoming acceptable attire outside of the gym and the impact of the pandemic has seen fashion move to soft and breathable fabrics, and styles suitable across a range of situations.

The historical representation of ballet throughout fashion is a significant marker of culture. As fine an art as haute couture, ballet has had a hand (and a foot) in shaping what we wear, and as we’ve seen in recent collections from Miu Miu and Valentino, the ballet trend is far from over.

Melbourne Fashion Week presents costumes from The Australian Ballet 30 Sep- 27 Oct 2024

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